What kind of paint do I use?
As a general rule use natural bristle for oil based paints and synthetic brushes for water based paints. A brush with a mix of bristle and synthetic head will be suitable for all types of paints and varnishes
How to tile walls
Tools you will need
- Bucket
- Drill
- Multi-mixer
- Trowel
- Float
- Spirit level
- Rubber mallet
- Sponge
- Tile spacers
- Gloves
- Goggles
- Dust mask
- Pencil
Choosing the right tool
Visit our dedicated page for more information about choosing the right tool.
Getting on with the job
Remove any old tiles and adhesive with a strong stripping knife.
Fill and repair any cracks or holes.
Rub down and clean surfaces to be tiled. Ensure that surfaces to be tiled are as smooth and even as possible.
Mix adhesive in a large container or bucket using a drill and a multi-mixer (alternatively use a ready-mixed adhesive). Be sure to keep the multi-mixer in the adhesive to avoid spray and the possibility of air entering the mix. It is advisable to keep the drill speed under 300 rpm during this stage. Follow adhesive instructions carefully and allow to set.
Hold a spirit level against the wall to identify any defects in the wall. Using a pencil, be sure to mark low and high areas that would have an impact on how the tiles would adhere to the wall surface.
Apply a light skim coat of adhesive to the surface area to level out defects in the wall. Once dry, place a spirit level over the area to ensure the surface is in the best condition to work with.
Identify the lowest point on the perimeter of the floor by running a spirit level across this area. Once this point has been found measure the wall with one full tile height plus the width of two spacers.
A temporary batten should be nailed to the wall with the top of the batten aligned to the measurement you have just made. A spirit level should be used to ensure this is level, as the floor may not be.
Locate the centre of the wall on the batten and carefully place a line of tiles without adhesive at this stage. Start with the centre of the tile in the centre of the batten and work outwards from that point. Remember to add enough of a gap to accommodate the tile spacers and joints along the way.
Slightly adjust the positioning of tiles to ensure that an even gap remains at each end. This makes the task easier as only two equal cuts will need to be made.
Once the arrangement is complete, mark the location of the tiles on the batten with a pencil. Now stack the tiles in a convenient location ready to be laid.
Use a plumb-bob to create a vertical line using the end marker on the batten. Then, using this line, mark the height for each row along the line remembering to include space for the joints. This provides a perfectly square corner from which to begin tiling.
Spread adhesive evenly over the working area using the straight edge of a trowel at around a 30-40° angle to the surface. The adhesive should be applied evenly over the surface area. The adhesive then needs to have a comb effect applied using the notched edge of a trowel at a 45-65° angle from the surface.
The first full tiles should be placed at the corner of the layout plan and along the batten. All tiles under the batten will be a complete tile or slightly less which avoids the need to make hairline cuts to fill in spaces that could be left by the tiles. These tiles should be cut and left in a pile ready to be applied once the full tiles are in place.
For the best technique, place the tile with a careful twist as this ensures a good adhesion. When placing the tile try not to reduce the thickness of the adhesive underneath, or press too hard, as this may result in adhesive building between tiles.
Spacers should be positioned between the two parallel edges of the tile, and the tile should be adjusted to meet the exact distance determined by the spacers you have chosen to use. Spacers should be placed horizontally within the join at either end and when a corner is formed these should be lowered to fit the cross point between the tiles. Spacers should eventually be removed prior to grouting.
At regular intervals, take time to ensure your pattern is forming straight and level lines. To do this, take a long spirit level and place it across the tile edge. Ensure the tiles form a straight line and adjust any tiles which are slightly out of place.
Continue to lay tiles with the twist motion previously described whilst taking time to make sure all tiles are straight and even.
Once an area has been completed it is important to check that the tiles form a level surface. A level piece of wood can be placed over the surface area to highlight any inconsistencies. Areas which are too high can be levelled by beating a rubber mallet against a piece of wood.
Should a tile be lower than others you will need to lift the tile and apply additional adhesive to the side which was lower. Place the tile and using the mallet and piece of wood ensure the tile sits level within the pattern.
Run a grout removing tool or a knife blade between the tiles to remove any surplus adhesive. Run a damp sponge, along the joints to lift any residue from the tile edges or joints. Leave the adhesive to set according the manufacturers instructions.
Professional tips
- Always mix adhesive in a clean bucket or container, as residue can cause the adhesive to cure prematurely.
- Combining powder and water is best done a little at a time to reduce airborne dust.
- New plaster surfaces should be left to dry out thoroughly for about one month before tiling.
- Apply enough adhesive to cover around 1sqm at a time, as this will allow you to work effectively without it curing too soon.


